What is your sidearm for Z-Day?
Well I am a fan of the sawed off shotgun so many different uses whether it's a slug for a head shot or buckshot for clearing a building with dangerous people inside them
And besides nothing says get the fuck away from me like a mouth full of buckshot
Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by Sabah Love on -
Sure as hell are my machete and this pretty big baby here .... a Smith & Wesson 686 .38SP / 357 MAGNUM
PS. I think this is the real peacemaker to make peace with a real real dead zombies ! (smile)
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Permalink Reply by Joseph the Life Giver on -
Perfect choice, revolvers force you to choose your shots carefully, and hell the bigger the bigger the hole (not sexual) so its a guaranteed, clean kill, can the caliber be modified?
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Permalink Reply by Death Dealer on -
I have never understood the idea that having fewer rounds makes you aim more carefully, if you can't shoot you can't shoot and having fewer rounds means you have less to make up for your lack of skill.
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Permalink Reply by Rc S. Reptile on -
HELLO! Now thats what i would stick with that and a few Jericho 941s
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Permalink Reply by That one Guy with a Rifle on -
Then again o second though I would have to say any semi-auto handgun with an ammo supply that is in just about any gunstore, like a 22. pistol
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Permalink Reply by Shadow Man on -
How about something that won't run out of ammunition and has been a proven head lopper for centuries?
I call it my back up - back up! And yes it's a REAL BLADE and it's REALLY SHARP!! This is not a wall hanger. Nothing says get out my face quite like a Viking Blade slicing through bone and flesh!!
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Permalink Reply by Milo Foxie on -
May i ask where you bought it and how much it cost?
Because to me it screams stage sword.
They look good and can take a bit of a beating, much more than a wall hanger but still quite breakable.
"Battle ready." Tends to mean good for light stage combat or metal weapons combat wich is about a fraction as hard as real combat due to safety restrictions.
And if you can point me to a Test cutting Video of that sword i would apriciate it.
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Permalink Reply by Streetwise on -
How effective will it be against a large amount of zombies coming at you all at once? Do you have any training in its use?
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Permalink Reply by Shadow Man on
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Personally I was really impressed with this sword. Since the below reviews the manufacturer has really improved the out of the box edge of the sword. It was absolutely no sweat to easily cleave clean through two full 2-liter soda bottles! I mean there's goes an arm!! The blade is fast in the hand and quickly and easily maneuvered. Now I'm a little above average in size and strength at 6'2" and 245#. I've also spent a fair amount of time in my youth studying Kendo and SCA war fighting. I'm a little rusty but somethings are like riding a bike...you never really forget. I picked this sword up after careful consideration and research. The intended purpose was as A CUTTER, not something just hung up on the wall and I'm not displeased with the result. Can't wait to take on some cutting matts and tire pell to see what it can really do. Wiwingti has the best price I could find on the internet and their delivery was amazingly FAST! This sword is a workhorse, a real cutter and affordable, I'm very pleased with my purchase and the quality of the sword overall. I have no doubt it will function as advertised.
As to the question regarding actual use in a PAW Zombie Apocalypse...who knows? I'm also pretty good with small arms and was an Expert Marksman in the military, but if the guns run dry...this will do until I can get more bullets. :)
SH2408 -- Tinker 9th Century Viking -
Sharp Our 9th Century Viking features the classic Type X wide fullered blade. Unlike the other models in this line the 9th Century Viking is of a peened pommel design. The accompanying blunt is thus geared towards the discerning reenactor with 2mm rounded edges and a more historical appearance. CAS has commissioned Michael `Tinker` Pearce to design a line of swords that will satisfy both the sparring and cutting needs of Western Martial Arts practitioners. Matching sharp and blunt versions of each sword in the series offer the same outstanding handling characteristics in both disciplines. The swords meet Tinker`s exacting quality requirements and are built in much the same way as his custom pieces. Each blade is forged from 5160 Spring Steel, Marquenched to the desired hardness of 50-53 Hrc while the tang is drawn back to the low 30s Hrc. For the Medieval models the very end of the tang is threaded to fit an allen nut recessed into the pommel which allows for dismantling of the hilt assembly for inspection, to exchange blades if needed, and for anyone wanting to easily customize their grip. Also the Sharp and Blunt blades are interchangeable on all Medieval models. The grips are cord wrapped and leather covered wood and tapered for a comfortable grip. Each sword is supplied with a leather covered wood scabbard with metal throat and chape.
MSRP: $329.00 USD
My price:165.00
Key Features:
5160 Marquenched Spring Steel Dismountable Tinker Approved
Specifications:
Blade length: 30 7/8"
Handle length: 6 1/2"
Overall length: 37 3/8"
Weight: 2lb 8oz
Point of Balance: 4 3/4"
Point of Percussion: 20 1/4"
Width at Guard: 2 3/16"
Width at Tip: 1 1/2"
Thickness at Guard: .200"
Thickness at Tip: .085"
Specs will vary slightly from piece to piece.
REVIEWS:
Good review, very detailed with lots of pictures: http://sbgswordforum.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&boa...
Here’s another review:
http://www.swordsofmight.com/images/products/display/Tinker_Pearce_...
http://www.myarmoury.com/talk/viewtopic.php?p=160681 +
Stats:
Weight: 2 lbs 8.8 ounces
Overall Length: 37 and 3/8 inches
Grip: 4 inches (total hilt length is 6 and ½ inces)
Blade Length: 30 and 7/8 inches from guard
Point of Balance: approx. 5 inches from guard
Center or Percussion: approx. 20 inches from guard
Distal Taper
At Crossguard -.5 cm
At COP - .4 cm
At End of Fuller - .3mm
Initial Impressions:
Hard to believe this is a Hanwei Medieval Sword
Appearance:
My normal collecting habits tend to focus on Viking swords found in Britain, so it is with some high expectation to add a piece with some “Norse” feel to my Viking experience. CAS/Hanwei has not marketed this piece as a recreation of any particular find, so I will judge its appearance more loosely than I might if they had billed this as “such and such recreation.” Its overall shape reminds me of a Peterson Type U, most notably a slightly different looking version of the basic shape of “C5818” in Peirce’s Swords of the Viking Age. Of course the dimpled decoration harkens to the famous type X of Skatteby Farm, “C26494” of the same book. In other words, to me it is a very pleasing mix of less British features. The dimple effect is pulled of very nicely, the job looks remarkably similar to the photos of similar historical pieces. They really look organic and not machined. The incised lines are subtle and effective, and the decorative wire is spot on. For the money, one can overlook the fact that one face of the pommel has an area where the wire is clearly seen anchored into the pommel. The tang has the normal trademark Hanwei look where it is peened. I am not a huge fan of the grip after owning so many swords with cord wrapped grips, but I understand it is a likely concession to save cost. The blade again has the normal brushes satin finish common in other Hanwei models. The fuller is well defined and very clean on both sides of the blade. The blade has a nice slow profile taper leading to a quick and sharper point than I usually see in Viking models, which normally have a more spatulate point. I prefer the latter in a Viking model, but that is just merely my taste. The scabbard is genuinely very nice, and any gripes one could make about “authenticity” need only refer back to the extremely low price tag. For the money, I have not seen a better scabbard period, end of story. It is thin, light and reasonable.
Handling:
I am a big fan of Viking blades. I feel I have a good understanding of how they should handle. This sword is both typical and surprising, in respects to my experience with Viking models. I find it sometimes heavy, sometimes light, it is dynamic and fluid in motion, but has a good deal of static weight to me. I have thought about this a lot, and I think I feel this is mostly due to the grip, which is wider than I am used to, or comfortable with. I have small hands, so the wide grip really makes me work harder in static positions. When I can get it in motion and cheat my hand further onto the pommel in a more “Viking” grip, I don’t feel the same effort is needed. I could genuinely use a slightly narrower overall grip. The sword does control very well, it tracks very well into cuts, and blade alignment is on par with my experiences with Viking models. Truthfully, it handles “better” than many Viking blades, I feel it is almost overly handy for its type, and that is either a good or a bad thing depending on what you value in handling. I almost prefer a Viking blade with the “feel” of more blade presence for collecting sake, as a user, I am quite pleased at times to have a more lively blade. Its weird, but I guess what I am saying is it handles quite well.
What you should expect:
This sword cost $279.99 plus shipping from kultofathena.com. It is a remarkably cheap sword given how accurate it is and how many higher end features it has. My big complaint, which I have yet to mention is the edge. I will take some time to talk about it here. The edge is pretty blah, a very noticeable bevel, and not very sharp. I had to spend a few days working it down to where it would give me cleaner cuts. At first I had to really load up on strikes/cuts to get through soft milk jugs, and 2 liters were almost impossible to cut. After working on it, I have made it better, but it will still need further refinement to have the edge I would feel it deserves. This is a pretty major issue in my eye, as not everyone will have the skill/knowledge to fix the edge, and given it is marketed as a cutter, it is something that should be addressed. That being said, I am quite certain the next shipments will be better, so perhaps this will be a non issue with later models.
All in all, this is an incredible value in a sword. It will fill a real niche for those wanting a user Viking model (including a nice scabbard), but who don’t want to drop the $700 plus on the next step up in the market. It’s a steal really, and with some TLC or even some upgrades, it will be great. Its amazing t think that a few years ago, no one would have expecting anything like this from Hanwei, it’s a testament to how great it is to be a sword collector right now, in such turbulent economic times, there are still gems to be had!
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Permalink Reply by Milo Foxie on
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Thankyou, possibly the best responce to any weapon thing i have ever seen on this site.
I'm now looking into getting one of their hand and a half swords *Drool*
As for you Streetwise.
Never pick up a weapon you cannot use, Thats what gets you killed.
And just because you can pick up a gun, point it at the target and shoot does not mean you can use it.
also HOORAY! FELLOW SCA MEMBER!
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Permalink Reply by David Reding on -
As much as I enjoy the larger caliber, my 13 years in the Army tells me to pack lightest loads possible. That being said, I would probably carry a .22 since the ammo has always been so abundant, the weapon is usually small and light, and the ammo is cheaper and lighter than anything else, meaning you can carry more. Plus there are conversion barrels for nearly every weapon on the planet to include rifles and such. I don't plan on using the pistol for long range shots, only as a last resort if they get too close, so don't need much more than .22.
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